The
Big Store:
South by Southwest for Scroungers
by
Charles Lieurance
"I
like going shopping / Shopping in the big store / Shopping
in the large store / Or any store that's big / In the big
store / It’s the biggest store in town…”
-- Stephen Duffy/Nikki Sudden
Part One –
This Band Could Be Your Next
This year’s
SXSW goal was to see all I could, eat and drink all I could
… for free. I mean, it’s something to hang a story
on, right? I know it’s slightly childish. At my age,
I should be stomping this big fairground with a platinum badge,
and howling on and on about how Neil Young hopped onstage
to play “Cowgirl in the Sand” with Franz Ferdinand
at 2 a.m., instead of limping around the periphery in broad
daylight with a star map and a dream, right?
In my defense,
I didn’t freeload those magical four days because I
felt some god-given sense that I was entitled to see a hundred
bands (all it’s humanly possible to actually absorb
in four days, I think) & drink & eat without foraging
for a single penny, but because I didn’t want anyone
to get the wrong idea about SXSW, especially red-centless
youngsters who can’t cough up the completely reasonable
$180 for wristbands, which sell out quickly anyway. I’ve
missed out on seeing a lot of friends because of the economic
realities of this, the most economically unrealistic of rock
festivals. So I’d like to prove it is possible to come
to Austin & wallow in the music & comestibles with
nothing but gas money & a place to crash.
Recently, a friend
of mine served some time for a misdemeanor, and when I picked
him up after his 10-day stint at the Del Valle Correctional
Complex, he whispered to me frantically: “It isn’t
working, this justice thing. It just isn’t working.
It’ll collapse in two years.” He related how every
day hundred upon hundreds of perps are bussed downtown to
the courthouse and paraded through the system with little
to no regard for their individuality and humanity, and scarce
regard for the actual nature of their crimes. A man who beat
his wife senseless with the butt of a shotgun got probation
and left the courtroom a relatively free man, while a man
with a second DWI (a marquee crime in Texas) was sentenced
to 120 days and was quickly bussed back to jail to serve his
time. Convicts were toying with the baroque sentencing laws,
breaking probation to serve small amounts of county time,
playing one sentence against the other, etc. People were purposefully
being arrested to plea bargain one infraction against the
other, which actually worked in the glutted system. “We’re
just going to have to find some level of illegality we can
live with, some infractions that don’t warrant punishment,
or we’re doomed,” My friend prophesied. “There
are just too fucking many criminals…”
Likewise,
there are just too fucking many bands. And that’s why,
to some, South by Southwest is NOT working. Most critics point
out that the festival began as a place to showcase “unsigned”
bands. But once you start getting into these musico-political
conversations, you’re almost immediately in over your
head. “Unsigned,” “indie,” “alternative,”
“big label,” “corporate” – these
are all slippery slopes, and just when you think you’ve
got it nailed down, a smoke bomb will go off and once the
plumes clear, the whole vista will have changed. The truth
is, a lot of the bands early on were “signed”
bands. In other words, they’d released something on
CD or vinyl. Most of these were actual labels, though small
and panicky, and some of these became actual corporations
once “indie” rock began to flourish on the internet.
I’m not going to put quote marks around any of these
tenuous adjectives anymore, because it’s annoying and
I’m, for the most part, preaching to either the converted,
or to those so set and jaded that the concepts are a fucking
joke anyway. Now, if there’s any quality or innovation
to your music at all, someone will probably distribute it
for you. You may not become wealthy, or break even, but you
can probably still get into SXSW. So yes, many of the bands
at the festival are signed bands, but one couldn’t possibly
accuse Wooden Wand, Brokedown, Faceless Werewolves, or Sound
Team of being shills for the corporate machine - unless, of
course, you’re the type who just does that to be a trouble-maker.
In which case, God bless you.
These
free day parties are especially fine for seeing a panorama
of legitimate, sacred failures, who – like the Scottish
midge – will barely pluck the surface of the cultural/corporate
pond, but will grab the attention of anyone with a little
adventure and pity in his soul. These are unmistakably underground
bands, and there are a thousand of them playing this festival.
Which brings me back to sheer numbers. No one is going to
tell anyone they have to forego starting a band until three
or four others break up; at least not on my watch, but the
thought does cross your mind after viewing a schedule of events,
and then again after seeing three or four bands in a row who
seem to be plowing the same turf. Sadly, it’s turf already
plowed into ash and dust around 1982. Still, with this kind
of volume, it’s pretty hard to say the festival organizers,
and the various bars and clubs and restaurants aren’t
doing their level best. While some hip Austinites vehemently
accuse these organizers of cultural war crimes, of pissing
on the very essence of South by Southwest, I just don’t
see it. If you’re in a band of any note, you’ll
be able to play this festival, and, if you think you’re
of note but weren’t invited, you either aren’t
really of note at all, or you’ll be invited next year
when you’re twice as noteworthy. So stay together one
more year, if you have it in you. If not, it’s one more
thing I won’t have to try to see next year. There really
are too many of you anyway.
And after awhile,
one band seems as good as another, anyway, and you just sit
tight at one venue, thinking you’ll either witness a
miracle or be stunned by the death throes of rock. Either
way, it’ll be an experience. And SXSW works best in
passive mode, I think, just letting the music within earshot
wash over you, instead of running from venue to venue like
a panting pilgrim. Because, odds are, you’re just as
likely to be stunned one place as another, by some new find
from the hinterlands, as by someone you know to be great.
In fact, wouldn’t you rather be pleasantly surprised
than woefully disappointed? This isn’t to say I sat
still, as the following journal makes clear. There were things
I HAD to see – Andre Williams, No Things, The Gris Gris,
Mazarin, Mendoza Line, Cheater Slicks, Morning After Girls…la
la la – but, whenever I could rationalize it even a
wee bit, I let my essential laziness hold sway.
A couple
of notes before I plunge into the details. One, I made certain
choices about bands that may seem weak to some, but hey, my
rock stars need not be your rock stars. For every Dengue Fever
I felt compelled to see, you could have seen Elf Power. For
every Andre Williams, there was a Thurston Moore or Billy
Bragg, and so on. Two, as you’ll see, not everything
worked out. I had to purchase a beer or drink or barbecue
sandwich here and there, and in the interests of full disclosure,
I spent $65 in four days. But I have a drinking and barbecue
problem. I’m sure you can do better. The idea is to
stick with the infinite free daytime possibilities and then
RSVP online for as many private night parties as you can,
or simply be content to see bands all day, and then do something
constructive, like change the oil in your RV, during the cool
evening hours.
FACELESS WEREWOLVES, for example
So, I
began my SXSW For Free schtick Wednesday, March 15,
2006, at noon. I started at my favorite bar in Austin, Red
Eyed Fly, which promised free PBR & Bloody Marys &
some bands I was marginally interested in seeing. It wasn't
really the bands that drew me in, but the free PBR & Bloody
Marys & the absolute beauty of the bar. My favorite thing
about Red Eyed Fly is all the flaws it's hiding. When you
walk in, it's a shabby chic warehouse kind of space, with
red velvet couches and curtains floated dumb over concrete
and bare structure. There's a stage in this room where stupid
shit happens. Hippies do their folk bongo nonsense and arm
wrestlers compete for drinks. It has an open, big-space Austin
feel, but it's nothing compared to the band room out back.
Oh, with the free drink places, always ask for three or four
drinks, as if you're getting drinks for a gaggle of grandmothers
who just needed to get off their feet. I asked for two bloody
marys and two PBRs & headed out back. This back room is
amazing. There's a big stage, still hung with banners from
concerts long gone by, looking for all the world like a House
of Blues barely hanging on after a fire-bombing. One side
of the room is open-air, but is sometimes draped with dingy
curtains to divide the musicians and their friends from the
rabble. The open-air part of the band room feels like you've
entered some kind of Telluride festival place where nature
and music flow together. The trees are thick and everything
is stony and rugged and you can hear and see water dribbling
off rocks into a stream. Just don't look at it all too closely.
The stream through the trees is some kind of sewage ditch.
But there's no reason for any tourist to know how artificial
all the beauty is. Like I said, just don't look too closely
at Red Eyed Fly, it's meant to give you a sensational impression
of Austin. I've lived here for two years and I'm still falling
for it.
So I get my fistful
of drinks, assuming there's a limited supply, and head back
to the picnic area. Already I love Austin. It just feels right
outside on this patio, and somehow they've made it feel like
the side area is reserved for rock stars, even though it never
is. So it feels great to find a seat back there and listen
to the water & watch the sun fight through the prehistoric
trees. It gives you a jungly colonial feeling that is most
certainly the best Austin has to offer.
The first
band is The Brokedown (thebrokedown.com)
from LA. The guitar player has George Harrison down, and the
singer sounds, alarmingly, like Jeff Tweedy. This is the beginning
of my new criticism of indie rock, and no, it’s not
how derivative the bands are. In rock’n’roll/pop
music, that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Bands either
pay off their sonic debts (Sonic Youth, Spacemen 3, Dream
Syndicate) or they don’t (The Killers are a young band,
but I’m guessing they’re not gonna pony up). There
was a time when I thought there weren't enough evident hooks
in alt/indie/underground rock, but now that every kid's spent
some time with Pet Sounds & Muswell Hillbillies &
Odyssey and Oracle, etc. there are almost too many pop flourishes,
so one has to look for the extreme emotion. Some things have
all the tricky melodicism of Elvis Costello or Joe Jackson,
but I longed for vehemence, vitriol...something to pull me
into these cathedrals of melody. None of the vocalists bit
me with their words, so I had to appreciate the art of melodic
construction. My first problems with this started with Brokedown.
Because, while they were gifted & could find their way
around a random lyric & a chorus, they sounded way too
much like Wilco. I think it was brave to go for George Harrison's
"Wah-Wah" as the second song of their set, considering
they had 30 minutes to tell us what they were all about, but
they pulled it off like champs. There was a gorgeous, sprawling
song towards the end that was ruined by the vocalist's supreme
debt to Tweedy. Gifted, lovely patio music.
When I told my
friend that the next band was described as "experimental
folk," he wanted the fuck out of the room. Being pretty
square he had an odd idea of what that might mean. To me,
I'm just grateful it's not called “folk.” When
I think of experimental folk, I guess Sparklehorse & Songs:Ohia
& Joanna Newsome & Howe Gelb come to mind and when
I described that to my friend he said, "Oh, like Timbuk
3..." and I had to admit that genre owed a strange debt
to them, but it was simply square to say so. It's a case of
swimming face down or up in the swimming pool. Timbuk 3 face
down. They drown upon arrival. I think Sparklehorse is the
pioneer, floating there in the inner tube, waiting to be read.
The Old
Weird Americana combo was Castanets (myspace.com/castanets).
They started out with an amazing acoustic dub version of Bob
Dylan's "New Pony," all dark, dirty corners &
flopsweat flourishes. After that they tinkered & creaked
through a Devendra Banhart meets Califone flake-blues that
made it okay that, halfway through the show, my favorite bartenders
erased the chalkboard & made PBR tallboys $4.
Well,
the real reason I’m here is up next -- Dengue
Fever (denguefevermusic.com),
The Pogues of colonial Asian music. Get a massage, see a girl
peel a banana with her nethers. But it's also a band full
of LA session losers, so it's even more decadent. The idea
behind this band is so suspect that it's hard not to write
it off. I mean, it's a bunch of dead-in-the-water Cali scenesters
(Kim Fowley types) who cuddled up to those Thai & Cambodian
60s & 70s comps (Morricone, Dick Dale & a hint of
green tea). But it also works. I got tired of all the instrumental
round robins, which don't really heat up in the 3:50 context
of Ceylon pop, but I can see how they'd light up a North Hollywood
dance floor. This band feels desperate, shouldn't last another
day, and felt great with a Bloody Mary and an inscrutable
ascot.
DENGUE FEVER, exotic as you or me
On, to
Emo's. Outdoor Stage. I'm looking for one of my favorite Chicago
bands, The Ponys (theponys.com),
but it's early. The bathrooms are so evil at Emo's that the
door guys are actually excited that the Emo's Annex porto-potties
are right across the street. It's great to watch people file
out the door between sets to use them. The band that hits
the stage is Sound Team (soundteam.net),
I think an Austin band. And they are a fantastic bit of Talking
Heads-ish/Franz Ferdinand pop. Big, funky sprawl, no fashion
attitude, great songwriting. I had the horrible feeling that
some record company would try to dress them up to look moodier.
But they were just Texas high wire all the way. Everything
about them says NEXT BIG THING, if life were, you know, fair.
But I can already tell how they'd have to be altered to fit.
As they stand now, it was like seeing Talking Heads on the
Remain in Light tour, only with a little more sad
humor in play. The bass player using the carpeted pillar on
stage as an e-bow didn't hurt.
The Ponys
did a weird daytime set. Normally, The Ponys are all new wave
twitch & Dick Hell tension, but for this free afternoon
show, they decided to play just the tempo changers, the moody
(for them) downers. You got the “Time,” without
the "New Pleasures." I loved watching it, but I
truly hoped it would draw the "right" kinda people
to what must be a more frenetic nighttime show.
When The
Ponys were finished, we trekked down Sixth Street to Mother
Egan’s to see some old friends, The Silos (thesilos.net),
and Stan Ridgway (stanridgway.com)
from Wall of Voodoo. Critics have been real compassionate
with Ridgway’s solo career, and I took it mostly as
a form of pity. Stan copped some musicians from other bands
playing that day and went through a wobbly set of life-on-the-street
vignettes that were alarmingly out of touch and embraced cliché
the way French writers embrace shit that isn’t theirs.
The beer here was most assuredly NOT free. This is the yuppie
end of Sixth Street and they’re not giving shit
away. Well, except the music. But it’s Stan Ridgway,
so…
I got
Drew from The Silos to spot me a few of his free beers and
settled in for a lazy set by this seminal alt. Folk band.
Lazy by intention, mind you. They were after a lilting hippie
vibe and that caught the setting sun just right. Perfect for
a pleasant Texas evening, but blatantly inconsequential for
a band that’s often quite consequential.
Thursday,
March 16th.
So Wednesday
started out with me being a spoiled scenester & then being
thankful for the ridiculous bounty bestowed upon me. I was
pretty excited to be invited to both days of the Vice Magazine
Day Party, even though I find their whole aesthetic to be
creeping up on fascism. They're the frat boys who think anything
they don't know is not worth knowing and have the fucking
trust funds to back it up. But the simple, late-period capitalist
strategy on which they've built their empire -- If you make
something seem elite, kids'll flock to it -- isn't completely
lost on me. I'm not made of steel after all. It didn't hurt
that their roster of bands quivered nervously on the edge
of everyone's Bands to Watch list. Vice had taken over two
venues in East Austin, a poor but lively neighborhood smack
dab in the middle of a gentrification skirmish. One is this
great barbecue restaurant live-music dive called Victory Grill,
where Ike & Tina and B.B. King played in the late 60s/early
70s. It's a beautiful place, all flaccid strings of Christmas
lights, saddle-sunk red booths & 9 or 10 shades of darkness.
When a side-door opens and lets in a machete of brazen Texas
sun, you expect some high drama that never comes. Next to
Victory Grill, Vice had rented a big empty lot for outdoor
shows & it was pretty big & empty & had some of
the best shows. Vice also commandeered the Longbranch Inn
across the street, a perfect bar I can't believe I hadn't
encountered before. Two dollar Schlitz, Rollergirl or Rollergirl
wannabes behind the bar, a proletarian floor-level stage &
a long thin open-endedness that just honks Texas chic. So
I get up to the gate and expect the handle-bar mustache frat
boys to scan through a clipboard for my name & then use
their radio headphones to reserve me a stein of Glenlivet,
but fuck, everybody's getting in. They slap on a pink wristband
to show I’m old enough to drink, magic marker a "v"
on my hand & that's that.
Victory Grill in the Old Days
Anyway, it turns
out this party is just plain free. To everyone. I'm not in
the elite post-rave cadre. I could say, "Fuck them, I
don't like them anyhoo," but I did feel a little hurt.
They'd just called it a private party to get past baroque
Austin liquor laws that only a little Hitler with an MBA could
possibly comprehend. But maybe the drinks are free inside.
No. The beer is $3/$4 for imports. HOWEVER, there's a tent
to the side with all the free whiskey (Phillips Union flavored
fucking whiskeys, with the slogan "Whiskey Curious?"),
PBR & some kind of loser Vodka. So things went like this
(consider this indicative of two days worth of drinking):
I walk into the outside concert area behind a band guy, a
woman with a box of beer says, "Hey Lyle, have a beer,"
while I'm standing right next to him. He says, "Sure"
and so do I, and she narrows her eyes at me. "A friend
of Lyle's?" She asks. Now, Lyle's still standing right
there & I don't dare look at him. "Of course,"
I say, and she hands me a beer. Lyle and I move along and
finally I apologize, but he's laughing & thinks it's pretty
funny. We shake hands, become friends & I'm pretty much
in free beer & vanilla flavored whiskey (who does that
to whiskey?) for two days. By the way, if I'd invented Lyle,
I wouldn't have named him Lyle.
Oh, yeah,
and there were bands. I walked in on Norway’s Serena
Maneesh (serena-maneesh.com)
using the sides of the stage to rip their guitars apart &
it was a splendid racket. Three types of rock -- metal &
noise & garage -- are simply one-upsmanship. If you can't
get louder & more ferocious & more distorted, don't
even play the game. These genres progress only by how much
power the band is capable of driving. Too many bands get behind
the wheel of a Ferrari & hit the ditch with the first
press of the gas pedal. The great metal/noise/garage bands
work out the logistics of monitors & microphones &
other sonic falderal & make you forget past champions
(Lightning Bolt/Boris/Sonic Youth/Chrome Cranks). Serena Maneesh
were hitting that zone, majestic crazy tar-rattling noise
that drove earthworms from the ground (I'm not kidding). I
have no idea what their songs were like, although I'd guess
they fell short of Thurston & Kim's meld of pop &
freakout, but the control & sonics were impressive. I
mean, it helps to write a good song, but unless you’ve
got it going on under the hood, you may as well be Foghat.
SERENA
MANEESH, Hindoo Noise Godz from Norway
Next
up: The Black Angels (theblackangels.com).
I used to manage The Black Angels. I love them dearly. When
I met them they couldn't score a gig & were bitter about
Austin institutions like The Chronicle and Emo's. Now, people
are begging them to come drone their sexy drone. This has
zero to do with me, but I love how happy they seem & how
shocked they are by the attention being ladled on them. They'd
added a guitarist since I saw them last & I'm not sure
if he adds much, but it does allow Nate (normally a guitarist)
to anchor their swirl as a bass player here and there. I wish
they weren't so obvious about their influences. They still
seem frighteningly innocent about the nature of rock, and
it makes me hold my breath. For instance, they covered "All
Tomorrow's Parties" and Alex (I wish I were kidding)
sang it just like Nico. I mean, he really imitated Nico's
vocals. Pointless. Amateur. They're still a really unsure
band & I want them to be more wily than they are. I hope
they can become a great band, but I think they are still tied
too much to the bands they worship -- Brian Jonestown Massacre,
VU, etc. and they think too much about what those bands would
do, not what THEY would do. Or what Jesus would do. Because
it's important to get that straight.
Now we
hit the difficult portion of the day. Art Brut (artbrut.org.uk).
My. A band so fucking indescribably charismatic that you almost
don't notice their complete lack of fresh ideas (a song about
the superficiality of LA? Wow, that is soooooo on target!).
This is one of England's next big things & they were the
nicest guys on the planet. They're doing the usual selling
out of post-punk, grabbing a little from The Fall, a little
from Gang of Four....blah blah blah, but they are so ingratiating
it's fucking hard to pelt them with refuse. Lead singer, Eddie
Argos, IS Steve Coogan -- a wild, eccentric, self-deprecating
comedian masquerading as a rock musician. They kicksarted
their set with AC/DC's "Back in Black" and finished
up with name-checking every band playing the Vice party ("CROM,
Top of the Pops; Knife Skills, Top of the Pops...") and
then...get this...they just sat there in the grass & watched
EVERY goddamn band that played thereafter. I finally just
went over and sat next to the front man – that's right,
me and NME's next big thing – and got him to go get
me a raspberry flavored whiskey drink. He's really just a
character actor waiting to happen. The music is humorous,
as you probably know, but there is not an ounce of staying
power in this band. All that charm & none of it has shit
to do with the music.
ART BRUT panders
Now, the
songs I've heard by Afrirampo (afrirampo.com)
have always had some control, a tinge of Martin Denny exotica
even, but that's not Afrirampo. My roommate has a mildly psychotic
fetish for Asian girls and, good lord, what Afrirampo did
to him. It's two Japanese girls who speak the secret language
of twins. One, the drummer, has a real facility with bird
calls & insisted we all be very quiet and listen to the
birds at one point, only to launch into the most dada skreel
known to man just after. The other girl did the typical angular
unresolved guitar patterns. They both seemed nearly mad and,
in a parallel universe, would be hauled off to whistle their
days away in the Austin State Hospital, like characters from
Wisconsin Death Trip. But it's Japrock so we'll just have
to wait for them to jump off an overpass in Osaka with their
red-robed disciples behind them.
I started
to get antsy because maybe there was a big horse trough full
of free Johnnie Walker in one of the other Vice venues, so
I hit Longbranch Inn & a stumbled across a happy accident,
Islands (myspace.com/islandsareforever).
From Montreal, and featuring members of Unicorns, they are
slithering around the Top Five bands I saw at the festival.
I resisted them at first, thinking they were just some local
fucking joke, a band that would play intricate indie pop with
a calypso beat & hope that gimmick got 'em in Magnet.
But that wasn't "it" at all. The group was huge
and the "stage" (remember it's just a floor-level
area) quite small. Two Asian guys with white shirts &
black bow ties, fresh from Suzuki method classes, played brilliantly
propulsive parts while a bari sax bumped the beautiful, ecstatic
pop songs along. The drummer was one of those guys who meet
every eye in the room, asking non-verbal questions ("Hey,
this is cool right?""What's going on later?""How
fun is this, Hoss?")and kicks up a storm of long forgotten
rhythms while the pop songs build to great big Shangri-Las
of ecstasy. So much so, and I can't believe this happened,
that two Canadian rappers joined in & took everything
to heaven. Yeah, that's right. It didn't fuck up a damn thing.
I'm still stunned. The Islands had a raggedness & openness
that is still giving me chills. I can still hear that bari
sax blurting underneath two grinning Japanese fiddlers, while
the drummer wordlessly taught me to samba & the lead singer
reeled out Mott & Pet Sounds & The Band.
Oh, and
here's where I found out that if I went to Longbranch, I could
drink more cheaply. I think I saw a bit of a band called Everloving
Lightningheart & didn't care.
Onward
and upward. Victory Grill. I walk back into this dark tunnel,
past the barbecue counter & I'm in my element -- red &
shadow flung together with lurid grace. It's where you plan
a murder. I have no idea what's coming up here but I go up
next to the stage & the tall mutant from the dream sequences
in Twin Peaks stands right next to me. Now, I'm tall
so I'm always amazed by people taller than I am, and I anxiously
befriend them for reasons only psychoanalysis will explain.
I'm watching the next band piece their crap together on stage
and I'm pretty fucking intrigued. They both look like bikers,
garage mechanics, old school hessians, and not in any effete
way. I mean these guys are broad-shouldered, scruffy sans
pretense. I'm trying to figure out what they could possibly
sound like. The skinny guy has a bank of keyboards wired up
to every kind of pedal imaginable and none of the keyboards
nor pedals have any brand names, just duct tape. In fact,
I've never seen so much duct tape. The big guy, with wallopsome
muscles, he's on the drums and they look like toys because
he's so, um, broad. So I'm trying to figure out what they'll
sound like. Hm. I don't get it, but I should have. I turn
to the guy from Twin Peaks and ask, "What's this band?"
and feel the warm hand of good fortune wrap around my shoulders.
"They
are Dutch, is called...." I have to stop here because
he told me all the ways this band's name is pronounced and
none of it made a bit of sense. Something about an "underscore"
came up at some point. Finally he showed me the back of his
badge and ran his finger across three Zs. The band was called
ZZZ (soundofzzz.nl),
at least here, but I had a feeling it was different in the
Netherlands. It was all coming together. The very tall Dutch
man seemed to think that me asking about the band allowed
me into some inner circle, so he shoved me to the stage and
made me shake hands with the drummer & the keyboard player,
then he went outside and brought me some flavored whiskey,
introduced me to several people who didn't speak English (at
one point I was sure I was being married off to one of the
band members...), and kept his hand locked on my shoulder
while the band launched into.....I got it now. They're Can
& Silver Apples. They might be the smartest band I've
seen so far. Huge walls of twirping, gelatinous fuckswirl,
gurgles of throb. They blew out power in the Victory Grill
twice & threw up their hands in triumph both times. Just
great. Fantastic minimalist Krautrock. The guy with the Z(underscore)Z
badge brought me four Whiskey Curious drinks during the set.
I think he thought I had something to offer that band, but
thankfully the language difficulties kept the question from
actually arising.
So I'm thinking,
hey, are there any fucking bad bands at SXSW this year? Have
I just gone soft? Maybe I've grown into one of those guys
who just likes all music. Look at those boys playing their
hearts out, how can you hate it?
Back to
the Vice Lot. All the worms have been driven from the ground,
so it's a pretty good setting. I grab a few more PBRs on Lyle's
dime & sit down to see the GO-TO show: Witch
(teepeerecords.com/bands/witch),
J.Mascis' new band. Admittedly I didn't read much about this,
but I love Dinosaur, Jr (wow, surprise), so I settled in &
Jesus, what's up with this? Stage front is Mascis, behind
a drum kit, a jowly sadsack fronting a deeply lame metal band
that isn't even cool enough to enter New Metal cliques. It
was so fucking sad I had to escape to Auditorium Shores to
see Spoon open for Echo & The
Bunnymen.
Me, not liking WITCH
Okay,
I'm 43 years old. So I was there (or here) for Echo &
the Bunnymen. It wasn't my favorite music, but I appreciated
the decadence they were trying for, loved the ringing guitars,
nodded at the wry Liverpudlian wit, enjoyed their somewhat
misguided takes on American psychedelia, and la la la. I just
remember that the record store fags really went for this so
I made fun of it whenever I could, and I just couldn't bear
their pronunciation of "tortoise" in "Seven
Seas," though now I think it's kinda cool. "Villier's
Terrace" was always my favorite song of theirs. My friends
the Lampshades, from Lincoln, used to cover "Bring on
the Dancing Horses," which has always hit my in the chest
just like "Unguarded Moment" by The Church (I think
they're distant twins), but otherwise I was lukewarm about
the Bunnymen. I'll just admit it, Donnie Darko rehabilitated
them for me. When I heard that sitar/guitar temple chime from
"Killing Moon" come out of that fucking Dolby speaker
at a theatre in Chicago, I revisited the whole Echo &
the Bunnymen catalogue, rethought it all. Now I see the Velvet
Underground influence, the popcraft, the way Ian won't distinguish
lyrically/vocally between irony & sentiment.
I'd been thinking
all week about how it would look, "Killing Moon"
starting while the sun set & the Austin cityscape twinkled
to life. I expected the deeply intimate moment I had the year
before, when Alejandro Escovedo opened for Ian Hunter. Really,
is there anything in the world more beautiful than standing
outside under stormy skies, watching a city light up, and
hearing "I Wish I Was Your Mother" by Ian Hunter
in a crowd of worshipful true believers? I forgot Spoon was
being played on The O.C. & Everwood & any other TV
show that would have them. I forgot they were darlings now.
The Shores were packed. Well, I thought so. Oh, this show
was free, by the way. I walked in and hit a wall immediately.
I stood stupidly far away and watched Spoon, a band I basically
admire. It was a moody, weird set though, and didn't fidget
with the barely contained anxiety that I normally love from
Spoon. It did call attention to the great late-period Beatles
keyboard parts that animate all of their more recent songs.
I love how the songs swirl around these Beatle-esque piano
loops. I was so far away that I can't say I got much more
out of it than that. Then, I thought, hey, what if people
are just stupid as fuck? Between the front gate and the stage,
there's a rolling little stone wall & sometimes people
forget they can go beyond it. So I walked around the crowd
and sure enough, you could cuddle right up to the stage.
Those
Bunnymen come on & you notice right off, hey, Will Sergeant
& Ian McCulloch can't fucking stand one another. Will's
standing about fifty paces to the north of Ian & not giving
a quarter. He never looks at, relates to, or recognizes Ian.
For the length of the show. So he's become the sound effect
guy, doing all the cool flourishes, while Ian plays with this
band of young turks and kicks ass. It was an incredible show
and the lights of Austin sparkled with lush abandon during
"Killing Moon," and the weird, condensed asides
to "Walk on the Wild Side" & "Coney Island
Baby" (easily the most ignored Lou Reed song and, next
to "Street Hassle," his best).
In the
crowd I lost all my rides and felt that beautiful walk over
the river into the gleaming city courage, so I headed to one
of two private invite-only parties, mostly to feel special.
Remember, so far, aside from a few beers, this has all been
free. I felt betrayed by the Vice party thing, so I needed
to get some ego boost. There was a terribly hip party sponsored
by Addvice that I could've gone to, but it was pretty far
away. It did promise free Rolling Rock & Sparks (more
about Sparks tomorrow) & it was in an East Austin warehouse
space, but the only two bands I cared about were The
Arm (one of Austin's best -- they rump like The Fall)
(thearmtheband.com),
who I see regularly & Whirlwind Heat. I chose the Diesel
party at Sagarruende Hall, a Teutonic meeting lodge, because
it was close. I already figured it would be like the Vice
party, where I'd have to pay for everything & I'd have
to slag along with the riff-raff.
Nope.
They looked up my name on a clipboard, treated me like a retarded
millionaire & plied me with Bacardi & Red Stripe.
I walked up to the bar and pretended I was shopping for six,
asked for three rum & cokes, a vodka & coke (Coke
was the only mixer they had) & a Red Stripe. I ran into
some industry types I knew who were licking their coyote jowls
over an Austin band called Voxtrot (voxtrot.net).
Listening to them, I have no idea why I don't love every breath
they take. It's perfect pop, but the mechanics of that perfection
seemed to get in the way of me actually disappearing inside
the music. Those kids and their Pet Sounds again. This has
got to be JUST ME, cuz there's no reason in the world why
Voxtrot shouldn't be big label hotshot do-gooder rock stars,
but I couldn't get a handle on the songs because of how constructed
they were. There were just too many hooks, and I never thought
I'd say that.
A few more trips
to the bar, then home.
Part Two –
Urban Outfitters of Montreal
The first
South by Southwest was held in 1987, and was initially designed
to introduce industry professionals to emerging young bands,
and to introduce the industry to Austin, which has the disadvantage
of being a reasonably lush and sophisticated college town
stranded in the middle of Texas. As everyone with even a passing
acquaintance with music knows, the festival has exploded over
the years. Even the notoriously up-to-date Wikipedia says
that the festival is held in “dozens” of venues
all over town. Well, that may be true for the festival proper,
but in reality there are bands playing in hundreds of locations
- anywhere you can set up an amp, really. There are bands
playing in clothing boutiques, record stores, grocery stores,
and in innumerable parking lots. The dozens of official venues
even have more than one stage going at a time, and sometimes
a tented annex stage in whatever empty lot they’re able
to commandeer.
To show
the level of near-panic the city reaches for four days in
March, here’s a longish excerpt from the Austin Chronicle
TCB section (by Christopher Gray), post-festival:
The grumbling that SXSW
is spiraling out of control was louder than ever this
year, but [SXSW Managing Director] Roland Swenson isn’t
buying it. “I don’t think so,” he
says. “There’s built-in limits. There’s
only so many hotel rooms or seats on airplanes. Next
year, there’ll be 400 more hotel rooms right by
the convention center.”
“People
said SXSW was too big ten years ago,” smiles Swenson.
Since then it’s only gotten bigger, thanks in
large part to the corporate-sponsored day-parties –
some, like Red Bull and Levi’s, rented vacant
venues for the entire week – that have proliferated
like so many mushrooms after one of our all-too-frequent
Central Texas showers. Dozens of Austin bars and other
businesses have responded by hosting their own non-SXSW
shindigs.
“That’s
an issue for us,” Swenson admits. “We recognize
that parties are a big part of the attraction. It’s
not like we want them to stop, but I wish they wouldn’t
start so early. There’s not a whole lot we can
do. All we can really do is make the programming compelling
enough that people will want to go.”
This may work itself out naturally: […] lines
for day parties this year were much longer than for
all but a few SXSW showcases, like the Flaming Lips’
“secret” Eternal show Thursday and Aussie
diva Sia at the Parish Saturday.
|
The good
news is, most of these day parties are free and open to anyone,
or someone with just a few very minor connections and some
internet savvy, like myself. The better news is, they’re
often sponsored by a beer or liquor of some sort, and the
drinks are either complimentary or they’re guarded in
a most lackluster fashion. Most of the retail outlets that
hold shows have iced buckets of free beer to offer folks who
choose that route.
The bad
news is, if the powers that be at the festival think all these
free, “private” day affairs are cutting into their
action, we might see a slightly more restrictive daytime roster
in the next few years. I should have known, really. It isn’t
often I get this beautiful pinprick chill down my spine for
four days running. You begin to feel you’re doing something
morally wrong after two days of free music, food and drink,
and anything this decadent and transporting surely cannot
last.
Friday,
March 17th.
Day three
began at Urban Outfitters on Guadalupe, a short stop to catch
Of Montreal (ofmontreal.net),
a survivor from the much-loved Elephant Six collective. Most
of these Elephant Six bands have the kind of impact miniature
goats and donkeys have at fairground petting zoos, but Of
Montreal, and compatriots Elf Power, have dragged their presence
and sound from endearing to pertinent with defiant aplomb.
Instead of having the sound of tinkly toys wound up to elate
the child in all of us, they seem to have embraced their inner
rock gods. Good for them. Although there was free beer somewhere
in the congested store, I didn’t try to plow through.
I have a hard enough time bracing for a trip to Urban Outfitters
as is. I was glad when select Ace Hardware stores began carrying
the very same cocktail gear.
The plan,
after this, was to head over to North Loop’s Block Party,
which promised Elf Power, Black Heart
Procession, The Cuts, Magnolia
Electric, Vietnam, and dozens of
other name acts, but I let laziness take over here, and wound
up back at the Vice Party triangle, mostly compelled by the
promise of Deadboy & The Elephantmen, a late afternoon
performance by Roky Erickson, and the triangle’s proximity
to Mrs. Bea’s where The nO Things were playing midday.
I stopped
by the Longbranch first to exhaust a couple of bottles of
High Life, and then headed over to the outdoor stage to take
in the Beefheartian carnival rants of Philadelphia’s
Man Man (wearemanman.com).
Though it was around noon – not the ideal time for this
sort of knotty insanity – Man Man created a perfect
false midnight bacchanalia. The songs from their second full-length,
Six Demon Bag, are slightly catchier than the ADD racket of
their debut, but the rollercoaster ride is just as raw and
potent. Now it’s listenable to boot.
UK’s
Mystery Jets (mysteryjets.com)
kept up the slightly nutso Mardi Gras vibe. They’re
a percussive, tribal version of The Soft Boys, eccentric and
puzzling but still essentially a pop band. If you stripped
away the bells and whistles, you might just have a whacky
Coldplay here, but I didn’t want to over-think the ecstatic
rhythms this early in the day, so I welcomed the colorful
wrapping paper and saved the actual gift for pondering at
a later date.
Guillemots
(guillemots.com) bounced
onto the stage next, disguised as gypsies, or the cast of
a slipshod production of Pippin. They played perfectly lovely,
dime-a-dozen Brit pop, enlivened somewhat by quirky noisemakers
(including a manual typewriter), a giddy lead singer, and
a vixen giantess on the stand-up bass.
GUILLEMOTS: Gentlefolk amongst the Pervo-fascists
Things
were running late and I was afraid -- though the shows were
officially staggered for my benefit – that Morning After
Girls on the outside stage, and Deadboy in Victory Grill,
would overlap, causing me some measure of distress. I decided
to stake out a spot in the welcoming whale’s belly of
the Grill, just in case Deadboy were red hot and packed the
small band room. Between you, me and the flyspecked wallpaper,
I was also hoping to see the very tall Dutch man again, hoping
he’d reprise the previous day’s generosity. No
such luck. Instead I found three or four bands sprawled out
in the most shadowy booths, getting some much-needed sleep.
Serenading them, and a smattering of what looked to be band
girlfriends, was enfant terrible Micah P. Hinson (micahphinson.com),
a notoriously troubled young Texas songwriter who’d
served jail time and been a major drug addict all before he
was fucking 20. Like James Taylor, who had a similar tale
of drug-addled woe, Hinson writes ponderously dull songs that
aspire to Will Oldham (or maybe Jens Lekman), but don’t
come close. You’d think wild living would get up a good
head of songwriting steam, but that’s not always the
case, apparently. Hinson just released a CD on Jade Tree Records,
so somebody likes his dishwater blond electric folk.
Deadboy
& The Elephantmen (deadboyandtheelephantment.com)
are a duo. There’s a pretty girl playing drums and a
shaggy guitar prodigy up front. You’d be excused for
thinking what I was thinking before I heard the music. Just
when it looks like they’re about to begin convincing
us they’re not a White Stripes tribute band, an earth-rattling
roar, iced with crackling electricity and an almost inaudible
high-end squeal, starts coming from amps, monitors, the paneling.
I’ve been in and around bands for over 20 years now,
and I’ve never, ever heard a sound so brazenly designed
to physically harm people. I figured anything so horrible
would have to have a quickly identifiable source (like someone
put a plugged-in distortion pedal inside a microwave, somehow
managed to start it up, and aimed 12 Shure PG-48s at the resulting
cacophony), so I remained in the room while everyone else
raced for the exits. Well, that’s not quite true. The
sound guys looked like someone had grabbed their balls and
rotated them like a pecan twist. The drummer, Tessie Brunet,
ducked and covered behind her kit. The man behind the beverage
counter looked bored as hell and didn’t even reach for
his ears. Dax Riggs, the guitar hero, froze and went pale.
So, this was really mucking up my schedule. It looked as if
Morning After Girls, Deadboy & The Elephantmen, and The
nO Things would all be playing simultaneously. I spent the
next half an hour running back and forth between the outdoor
stage and the Grill, hoping for something to give. Finally,
Australia’s The Morning After Girls
(themorningaftergirls.com)
came on, but I was almost too worried about what was going
on with Deadboy to enjoy their swaggering space buzz properly.
They’re like Black Angels with more confidence and rock
star insolence. Oh, and a vocalist who can go from junkie
mumble to Bon Scott’s ballsy shriek in the thump of
a floor tom. But what was happening with Deadboy?
Well,
now some TV or radio signal had added a mid-range to the intermittent
roar, and the sound guys were switching out monitors like
ball bearings. Riggs and Brunet (‘70s cop show?) were
slumped into a booth, heads in hands. I went over to Longbranch
to have a beer, for some reason choosing to drink and fret
instead of watching the end of Morning After Girls’
set. When I finished the High Life, I returned to Victory
Grill and, by God, Deadboy was mid-song, and altogether unlike
the White Stripes. Deadboy is snagglier and more indebted
to the tempo change-ups, dynamics, and orchestral movements
of early acid rock than to the blues angle. They’re
tougher than Jack and Meg, a fortunate middle ground between
the steely sex-raunch of The Kills and the longtime married
couple trying to spice up their relationship with zipper masks
and dildos on Friday night (but cuddling later) that White
Stripes have become. After another completely cool (nothing
at all like WS) song, the Victory Grill’s power blew
again, and Riggs snapped a string. He smashed his guitar neck
into the mic stand, knocking it over, tossed his guitar on
the stage, took a breath, apologized to the sound guy for
the microphone, and hunched off into the shadows. Brunet followed
sheepishly. I had to go see The nO Things.
It was
six blocks to Mrs. Bea’s and the most adventurous four-day
bill at the festival. If I’d had an ounce of real courage,
I’d just have camped out behind the humble little Mexican
bar and been astonished by act after act. The shindig was
sponsored by The Rambler, a 1980 Chevy Box Van from San Francisco.
The van transforms into a soundstage with a PA and all the
amenities. The van is from San Francisco but it apparently
drove itself to Austin and rented out the back lot of this
very authentic Eastside cantina. I’ve seen the band
Friends Forever utilize this means of touring. In fact, maybe
they were friends of this van. I never asked. This are two
stages of Animal Collectivey/Brut Proggy/Load Recordsy/Tard
Metallic mayhem, and from a block away it sounds like one
guy is spastically hitting the real audio samples on Rahsaan
Roland Kirk’s Allmusic page while his friend plays Donkey
Kong for the Hearing Impaired. Out front, bar regulars –
mostly old Mexican men in straw cowboy hats seemingly oblivious
to the tuneless madness going on in back – have brought
crock pots of Mexican food to sell to the mathy enclave of
hipsters who are shifting, almost imperceptibly, from stage
to stage, for hours at a time.
When I
arrived, nO Things’ pals, Knife Skills
(knife-skills.com),
were charging through a more severely analytical version of
whatever it was Babes in Toyland went broke doing in the early
‘90s. Instead of raw id, though, this machine runs on
tightly wound anxiety. Now, two members of nO Things
(no-things.com) are
good friends of mine, so you can take whatever I say about
them with some caution, even though I’ve been known
to tell close friends to their faces that their bands aren’t
worth a piss and a shake. nO Things feature Pat Noecker (Nature)
and Ron Albertson, who were unceremoniously ousted from the
notorious NYC-by-way-of-LA-and-Australia band, Liars. I made
a point of telling them I’d read in a free copy of Vice
Magazine that the new Liars CD was named worst record of the
year, and it’s only fucking March. High fives all around.
I really love what Pat and Ron are up to now. nO Things songwriter
/ vocalist / guitarist, Christian Dautresme, writes lean Lautremont-style
lyrics that wiggle and squirm from syllable to syllable, taking
you through urban hellscapes into fleshier infernos with dazzling
skill. While Dautresme played edgy, condensed versions of
Television’s staticky guitar filigree, slashing here
and there for emphasis, Pat absolutely reinvented bass pyrotechnics,
savaging the instrument, but in a highly melodic fashion,
like the dubby skeletons on early Liars material, but way
more interesting. And Ron trapped this tense, vaulting buzz
into rock songs. I have to admit I thought Dautresme was a
trespasser when I first saw him pacing around the Rambler,
figured he was looking for a free beer tub. He looked like
a grad student fallen on hard times, maybe even an elder statesman
frat boy. He’s a stark and pretty damn fascinating contrast
to the Birthday Party-era Nick Cave braggadocio of Liars’
Angus Andrews. In the “Who can out-No Wave the Original
No Wavers?” office pool, I’ll take nO Things.
Ron Albertson of nO
Things
I spent
most of Drums and Tuba (drumsandtuba.com)
catching up with Ron and Pat, but tuned in momentarily to
note what an uninteresting sound they were making with such
eccentric instruments, something I’d also noticed on
their CDs.
Roky Erickson
was about to start back at the Vice stage, so I couldn’t
see all I wanted of New Zealand’s Cortina (myspace.com/cortinanz),
a description of which would sound incoherent to almost anyone
– Motorhead splattered with X-Ray Spex, maybe? Or Blondie
tied to Def Leppard with a feather boa? See, I told you. But
there it is, regardless.
Loyal
fans of Texas rock were already clogging up the east end of
Sixth Street for the free appearance by America’s Syd
Barrett, Roky Erickson (rokyerickson.net).
Even local politicos had come out for his introduction by
our state’s next governor, Kinky Friedman. Now, ten
years ago, Roky was in a very bad way. His mother had been
giving him herbs and organic whatnots for his mental illness
and he was becoming less lucid by the year. Recently, however,
Roky’s brother has taken control of his treatment, making
sure he got the pharmaceuticals he so desperately required.
Well Roky’s a new man, to say the least. While he still
looks like he might jump off the stage into the underbrush
every now and again, his recent sets have been gripping. In
an unlikely moment of cognitive dissonance, Roky’s brother,
Sumner, sang the “Star Spangled Banner” at a University
of Texas vs. Kansas basketball game, and Roky himself sang
his “Starry Eyes” at half-time, with the Longhorn
band as back-up. If I were making this up, I wouldn’t
have chosen “Starry Eyes.” Roky’s back to
being a Texas cultural institution again, instead of a brokedown
cult figure. Maybe the new documentary, The Devil and Daniel
Johnston, will do the same for DJ. On the other hand, I still
don’t see a Jandek statue next to Stevie Ray Vaughn’s
down on the river front.
Before
braving the crowds at the outdoor stage, I stopped into the
Longbranch, had a few more cheap beers and a shot of howdy-do,
and watched some of that New Metal all the kids are raving
over, The Saviours (thesaviours.com),
and a bit of CROM. CROM (myspace.com/crom1)
were a slogging heavy Sabbath; Saviours an inventive, more
agitated Sabbath with some glam bite. I heard from the doorman
that this band who’d been wandering around all day dressed
like Clockwork Orange characters, Towers of London, had gotten
into a truly violent altercation with fans earlier. I walked
by them on my way in to see Roky, though, and they seemed
ruffled, but otherwise unscathed. I couldn’t imagine
them actually fighting in those get-ups, seemed humiliating
for everyone involved.
Roky performed
the kind of greatest hits set one would expect from a slightly
wobbly elder statesman and, if the lyrics weren’t borderline
psychotic, I might have mistaken him for any number of other
Texas roots rock icons. If they weren’t all dead ‘cept
for him. Stage right were a few politicians in baggy suits,
Kinky Friedman, and the omnipresent Beatle Bob, who did a
very convincing back-forth dance of the undead during “I
Walked with a Zombie.” Beatle Bob is everywhere. In
fact, like Kurt Vonnegut, I’m going to do an aside in
this already interminable story and include a short interview
with Beatle Bob from the Austin Chronicle:
Insider:
This is your eighth year at SXSW. When did people start
paying attention to you?
BB:
It started the first year. There are a lot of bands
I've seen at home in St. Louis and at festivals that
would mention me onstage or have me up to dance with
them. People knew from that, so when they started seeing
me at SXSW and wondered who I was, someone near them
would say, "That's Beatle Bob. He dances."
Insider:
What's the secret to the dance?
BB:
It's a hodgepodge of Sixties dances I'd seen in Shindig!
and Hullabaloo. My friends Dash Rip Rock wrote a song
about it that will be on the next CD. It's called "Do
the Beatle Bob." It explains everything, but my
signature move is to get your hands to look like you're
throwing dice and then kick your leg back like a bowling
move. When Dash brought me onstage last year to debut
the song, the whole crowd implemented it. It looked
like an aerobic instructional video -- a sea of Beatle
Bobs.
Insider:
It's been said that if you see Beatle Bob at a show,
it's the right show. What's the criteria?
BB:
Sometimes I do too much research. It looks like a big
racing form; I'm circling things keeping in mind what's
before and after, which clubs are close together, and
which clubs are small enough that I'd need to be there
an hour early. You can't be everywhere at once; you're
always missing something good at this festival. You
have to forget about what you're missing and focus on
what you're seeing at that time.
Insider:
You're at parties all day and showcases all night. How
do you do it?
BB:
It's leading an un-rock & roll lifestyle. I don't
drink alcohol, don't smoke, and I'm a vegetarian. It's
tough to find veggie food at a Texas party. But I'm
not complaining. I can get by on four hours sleep and
get going after a big healthy breakfast. I always tell
people that no matter how tired you are, drag yourself
into the venue. The bands will do the rest for you --
they'll pick you up.
|
BEATLE
BOB (far left) takes it to the streets.
BEATLE BOB's 1971 high school yearbook photograph
When Roky
left the stage, one of the handlebar mustached leatherboys
from Vice thanked us, and East Austin, for making their two-day
“private” party a roaring success, and introduced
a band from the Vice Records roster, Favourite Sons
(favouritesons.com),
whose name is spelled wrong and who sound like everything
from Franz Ferdinand to Futureheads to Keane, depending which
way you bend your head, but have all the stage charm of an
empty sandwich board leaning against a storefront on a blazing
Texas afternoon. I know what you’re thinking: Hey, by
that token (the xenophobic idiot token), The Saviours spelled
their name wrong as well. Well, fuck you, don’t you
know better than to tangle with a xenophobic idiot? On the
upside, suddenly all the extra booze in the VIP tent was free
– fruit-flavored whiskies, beer, and…Sparks. I
drank as much as possible of each of the former until they
ran out, and then decided to try some Sparks, a “charged-up
beer,” as it was described to me. It’s like a
grainier Tang with just a half-jigger of rubbing alcohol.
I guess the kids like it for getting drunk while they study
for final exams.
I think
I’ve got one more band in me if you do. I headed back
to Mrs. Bea’s to catch Brooklyn’s Wooden
Wand (woodenwand.net)
(without his usual accompaniment, The Vanishing Voice, tonight,
I believe), an outfit that’s basically one man, James
Toth (I think), and a revolving collective of like-minded
freak folkers in the Devendra Banhart/Animal Collective vein.
On recordings they/he can sound like chicken bones tied to
a chain link fence, ticking in the breeze unless you crank
the volume, and then you begin to make out the interplay of
voices, sometimes warbling Joanna Newsom-style, sometimes
relaying a fairly listenable Dylanesque melody line, but always
submerged under some primordial muck one can only assume is
the mossy loam of Middle Earth. Live, though, Toth is a really
perceptive, engaging writer of folkish songs that could, fairly
easily, be great rock songs, if he were to dismount the mushroom
and float that direction.
“Can you
hear the vocals okay?” Toth (I think) asked the crowd.
We nodded, shrugged,
pushed our glasses up our noses.
“Good, cuz
that’s kinda what we’re known for.”
I didn’t
want to laugh, he was that good. I was really impressed, as
I’d come sorta hoping for a drum circle to ridicule.
After the set, I headed to the side of the small stage (which
made Wooden Wand look, for all the world, like a nativity
display) to tell Toth and his nymph how much I’d enjoyed
the show and ran smack into Thurston Moore. I mean, slammed
into him. My hand, reaching out to shake with someone
in Wand, damn near cupped the man’s balls instead. And
speaking of privates, there were a few private parties I could’ve
ventured to later, but I figured it was time to call it a
day.
Part
Three – The Happy Tent
Saturday,
March 18th.
Although
I’d printed out 30 pages of free SXSW day-parties, I
decided not to even look at what I’d missed on Friday,
and just picked out a select few pages for Saturday. I knew
I wanted to see Andre Williams, for instance, in the afternoon
at Continental Club, followed by my friends Head of Femur
at Mother Egan’s, and The Gris Gris at the French Legation
Arthur magazine party in the early evening, but beyond that
I was pretty willing to be swept along. My cohort and roommate,
Chris, had his sights set on seeing Billy Bragg for free at
Yard Dog, but I hoped we could avoid half an hour of the cockney
Bolshevik preaching the standard cant of Dubya cretinism to
an audience of the converted. We decided to start out at the
French Legation party.
The French
Legation is located in a bucolic, lush alcove of downtown
Austin and was built in 1840 as the home of the charge
d’affaires from France in the Republic of Texas.
It’s an almost wintry, drizzly morning as we walk through
the stone gate and see the genteel white tent set up on the
lawn, as if for a wedding. At first it looks like another
party where my RSVP was merely a formality. Everyone is welcome
and, except for a horse trough of PBR on ice, the drinks are
overpriced, the burgers not free. There are, however, hefty
sacks full of booty – free compilation CDs, Altoids,
posters, postcards, stickers, etc. It was the perfect environment
in which to see Lavender Diamond (myspace.com/lavenderdiamond),
up first. From the Judee Sill/Margo Guryan/Vashti Bunyan school
of singer/songwriters, Diamond singer, Becky Stark, made some
flaky comments about the weather – referring to the
fog and drizzle – being an intelligence, about peace
on earth being inside every one of us, and insisted we respond
to her as if we knew what the flying hell she was talking
about. But somehow I didn’t mind a minute of it, because
her singing, and the loping, eccentric wild hairs her band
followed gracefully, combined with the foggy view of the city
below, the patter of the rain, and the two little tots in
dinosaur sweaters who crawled around in the grass eating from
tins of tangerine Altoids, conspired to make this goddamn
perfect. It doesn’t hurt that she’s excruciatingly
beautiful, in that unsullied by the world’s bitter
gravy sort of way.
Still, I haven’t
gone completely squishy, because as she sings about weather
brains or some such thing, I notice that a woman sitting in
front of me is being given a red wristband on the sly. It
occurs to me that maybe there are some special favors in store
for those who are actually on the guest list, so I swallow
my dignity entirely and confront the wristband lady.
“So does
being on the guest list, y’know, get me anything special,
or…”
She looks around
slyly, sighs, and – without saying a word – begins
putting a red band around my wrist. Then she walks away. I’m
still not sure what this allows me to do, but I notice that
the woman who was banded before me has proceeded into an adjacent
canopy, under which sits a nearly catatonic J. Mascis. So
I forge ahead, brace myself for a few seconds of rain, and
present my wrist to a Chris Cornell look-alike who’s
guarding the sanctuary. He nods and that’s pretty much
the beginning and the end of my day, because under this tent
is paradise. Get this: free Converse Chuck Taylors, ten bottles
of pour-it-yourself Skyy vodka, three kegs of relatively high-end
beer, and some mixers I’m not all that excited about.
Oh, and J. Mascis. Since Mascis and I have a friend in common,
I decide to approach him, even thought the only thing on my
mind is how wretched Witch is, so I decide to make it short
and sweet. I mention our mutual pal and he acts as though
the name is only marginally meaningful to him, even though
I’m absolutely sure they’re very close friends.
Instantly, I’m struck by the limpness of Mascis’
handshake. It’s like a big, slightly moist wad of bread
dough. I wanted to give out a little scream, but held back.
I didn’t pursue any further communion with my idol.
I made
myself a very hefty bloody mary & hobnobbed with the friendly,
privileged scenesters in the tent, trying not to look over
at Mascis, slumping like a wet dog against a wall of the “VIP
tent.” My roommate is out watching the woefully-named
Archie Bronson Outfit (archiebronsonoutfit.net),
a British band who reminded me, for some reason, of the old
Bristol band, Blue Aeroplanes. They’re playing a jazzier,
more angular version of the Velvet Underground churn, but
there are also evident touches of Krautrock. I would’ve
sworn they were Germans or Dutch, but soon my roommate was
swatting me in the face with the band’s bio and I surrendered.
I’d really just come out of vodka heaven to brag about
my new sneakers and the stoutness of my drink anyway. I went
back to the special Happy Tent, spent some time trying desperately
not to be cynical about everything coming out of Lavender
Diamond’s mouth, and then had to make my way downtown
to see Mendoza Line at Red-Eyed Fly.
From this
point on, I become a slightly unreliable narrator. Since I
finally found that exclusive grotto of minor celebrity and
free alcohol, I pretty much decided to make a day of it, if
you know what I mean. I didn’t really care anymore that
the Red-Eyed Fly was charging $4 for a Lone Star tallboy.
I forked it over happily. Probably, to most of you, Mendoza
Line (mendozaline.com)
is just another indie pop band, but I’ve always missed
out on seeing them and I’ve been buying up their records
with fever. “Baby, I Know What You’re Thinking”
is one of the greatest break-up songs I’ve ever heard,
and there’s a world full of great break-up songs out
there. What do I love about ML? Well, it doesn’t hurt
that they have three vocalists, so the songs go from Dylan-style
epics, to Yo La Tengo-ish cuddle-fuzz, to Mekons-rough country
rock in the course of one CD. The variety is key. The songwriting
is always intriguing, always head-above-water, even when awash
in melancholy. They write hooks without calculators, and I
appreciate that. The unfortunate thing about the free afternoon
shows is that many of the bands just perform teaser sets,
saving more filling shows for the night crowds with their
wristbands, tiara’s, and fancy badges. Now, this isn’t
to say Mendoza Line didn’t bring out their A-game. On
the contrary, it was a majestically confident set from a pop
band at the height of its power, but the set belonged entirely
to Shannon McArdle, so many of my favorite ML songs were omitted.
Her voice, demeanor and songs are clever and sexy, though,
so I got over it quickly.
Here’s where
things get muddy, because I’ve been buying drinks now
indiscriminately, trying to follow-through on the boozy promise
of the French Legation. My roommate decided I was in no shape
to handle downtown Austin without a wingman, so we missed
Billy Bragg at Yard Dog art gallery and boutique in the slightly-too-trendy
South Congress (SoCo) neighborhood. I’m pretty sure
that there were free drinks being handed out. I’m told
we heard one song by whatever folky nonentities followed Bragg
onstage, but that memory has been mercifully erased. As we
stumble down South Congress to the next venue we walk by the
Drive-By Truckers playing at a burger joint’s outdoor
courtyard.
But the
next moment is an IT moment for me – Andre Williams
(intheredrecords.com/pages/andre.html).
You can scan my opinion of his sleazy, crazed resume elsewhere
on Blastitude. Back when black jukeboxes were black, and white
jukeboxes were white, he roamed the bronze quarters like a
dinosaur. He was the red-shag-carpet-on-the-walls Wurlitzer
party you could have without a single white person knowing
such a thing ever existed. In the mid-‘90s, after nearly
spending himself with drug addict and perpetual reprobate,
Ike Turner, Andre made the most unlikely of comebacks, resurfacing
with Mick Collins from The Gories, Blacktop, and The Dirtbombs.
Collins was the king of Detroit lo-fi, garage-blues skronk,
and he delivered Williams to a whole new audience of lip-licking
hipsters. Williams is an American treasure, the sort of thing
they just wouldn’t grasp in downtown Mosul, and I’ve
been waiting to see him for the better part of a decade.
The show
is at Continental Club, the R & B/Blues/Roots headquarters
of Austin. Hell, upstairs there’s an Ed “Big Daddy”
Roth exhibit that I won’t have nearly enough clarity
to witness. We walk in on the band preceding Williams, but
again my memory has been erased. All of my willpower is focused
on mustering enough processing power to retain some sort of
impression of Andre’s show. Any stray bits left over
are busy spotting rock stars in the crowd. In the midst of
the gauzy, alcohol-fueled momentum, I had a great stage-side
conversation with Jello Biafra about a show the DK’s
had in Omaha in the early ‘80s, opened by Power of the
Spoken Word, one of the best punk/metal bands in the Midwest.
We talked about the death of PSW’s lead singer, Jake
Ryan, a good friend of mine. Then Mojo Nixon and Jon Langford
from the Mekons (a man I once frightened so badly at Delilah’s
in Chicago that he handed me a fistful of Johnny Cash 45s),
joined the conversation and I wish to God I remembered all
of the talk. I loved that Jello went on so much about Jake,
because I’d no idea they’d kept in touch..
Andre, introduced
by Mojo Nixon, took the stage with two Burly-Q girls from
Kansas City, He was dressed like Luc Sante’s idea of
a Storyville pimp & proclaimed himself immediately a “Baaaaaad
Motherfucker!” Just like the Bar-Kays did for Son of
Shaft. He sipped his rum and nipped, and yelped, and hollered
his way through a bottomless back-catalogue, while the girls
spun their tassels and made googly eyes as he took them back
in time with him, to a dark, red spot at the rear of Victory
Grill where any damn thing can happen, where sequins fly off
into blazing shafts of sunlight and little shrieks of delight
barely infiltrate the holy groove. It was a sleazy riot act,
everything I hoped it would be, and more. I wish I recalled
more the starry social interaction, but the music kicked a
wild hole in my spanking red musical barn door. When it’s
over, all I want is to return to the Legation and stand on
the hillside over Austin, drink vodka with crazy, inventive
young musicians, and tell them the story of Andre Williams.
But I have to go see my friends in Head of Femur first.
The minute
I leave the Continental, I realize how many bands I’m
missing right now. I can feel it, feel it happening without
me all over town – Phosphorescent,
Shearwater, Great Lake Swimmers,
Bob Pollard, Centro-Matic,
Mazarin, Essex Green, Band
of Horses, the comedy stylings of David Cross
& Patton Oswalt…My skin is crawling
a little as I feel all these missed opportunities, but I must
not think bad thoughts. We head back to the fussy end of Sixth
Street, to Mother Egan’s, to see Head of Femur
(headoffemur.com), a band that’s gone from
20-piece Brian Wilson tribute band to THE Band, from Four
Freshman sweaters to scruffy all-American fellow travelers.
Apparently, all the event times are shifting today, so I’m
watching Femur’s set nervously, sweating I might not
get back to the Legation in time for Gris Gris, sweating that
I’m missing hundreds of bands right now. I can feel
them, almost hear them if I crane my neck. It sounded as if
Femur (headoffemur.com)
had whittled their sound down to a rustic, brainwave-grained
toy duck & sent it bobbing down a river where the Muswell
Hillbillies live across the whitewater from Reuben Remus,
Tiny Montgomery, and the Mighty Quinn. This in mind, I make
myself still inside, like a Shaker. It’s a gift to be
simple.
Once back
at the Legation, there’s a ghost-white winter fog over
the city and I head for the Happy Tent. I take a seat in a
circle comprised of Ariel Pink, some members of Mazarin, and
The Gris Gris, a band I met a few years back in Omaha. They’re
the reason I’m here, although there’s a really
bombastic garage soul outfit on stage, The Noisettes
(thenoisettes.com)
flickering somewhere between The Plasmatics, Detroit Cobras,
and The Bellrays. The singer is a 12-foot tall force of nature
named Shingai Shoniwa, who stalks the stage like a tiger prowling
for infants. I’m in the middle of a pop/dada pow-wow,
drinking free vodka, and whittled down to a bobbing duck.
The Gris- Gris start setting up, and I’m eagerly anticipating
their creaky, wild blend of ancient Pink Floyd, Pretty Things
and Memphis swamp-soul. They get a tribal groove started and
the power goes out. All of it. I sit there in the dark for
awhile and wait for encouraging signs, but there are none.
I’m
sitting there in the dark, in a folding chair in the Happy
Tent, a cup of nearly straight vodka in my lap, thinking about
the bands I’ll see tomorrow at the big Sunday Beer Bash
& Barbecue sponsored by New York Night Train. Jesus, look
at the line-up – Kid “Congo” Powers,
American Death Ray, The Dazzling
King Solomon Quartet … all for free. But, like
clockwork, I sleep in & miss the whole damn thing.
“Well
I ain’t no fun time Davy/No fun time Paul or Simon/I’m
just fun time Stevie/And I’m no fun at all/I like going
shopping/Shopping in the big store/Shopping in the large store/or
any store that’s big…”
There's a new Wendy O. Williams in Town: THE
NOISETTES
GRIS GRIS at the Legation
ANNA MAY WONG, Just Because I Think About Her
Almost Constantly
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